FAQ: Scissor Happy Stylist and Heat Damage

A reader asked:
I'm going to a salon for the first time in a long time. I'm going for a trim and a blow out. I already told her no Marcel irons as I am currently growing out heat damage. Are there any other suggestions to make sure my trim doesn't become a full on cut and to make sure my blow out doesn't cause any heat damage.
A stylist and cosmetology teacher actually told me that most stylists are trained to trim off about 3/4" when trimming. That's about how much it takes to make sure all split, splitting and weathered ends are gone. I don't trim my hair, but when I "search and destroy" I usually cut one inch above the split, splitting, knots or weathered end to make sure it's gone. If you don't get it all off it will continue to split. At the stylist, before you go to get your hair trimmed, you need to decide how much you are comfortable with losing. You really need to be comfortable with losing at least 1/2" (if you're ends are really bad expect to loose at the very least 1") or else there is no point in getting a professional trim. When you get there be very assertive in letting your stylist know you just want to trim the ends and not the length. Let them know you will be very unhappy if they cut off more than you expect. Tell them a story about a bad experience you had with a stylist trimming off too much. Right before the stylists start the trim, ask to see how much they will be trimming off. If you're with a good stylist this should be a non-issue and they will happily demonstrate how much they will trim before they start. During the trim don't just sit idly by if you see them trim off more than expected, voice your opinion. A good stylist will listen and do what you requested.

As for preventing heat damage. It's always better if the stylist can do a roller wrap first and then flat iron rather than just blow dry and flat iron. Ask for a roller set and wrap to reduce the amount of heat used. Again, voice your concerns about heat damage. A good stylist will be agreeable and submit to your requests.

You don't have to be super annoying or a b* to get what you need to be happy at a stylist. Have all of these conversations before the appointment starts. Be very assertive and just really have a conversation that will address your concerns. The way the stylist reacts is a tell-tale sign of a good stylist vs. a bad stylist. If you don't like what's happening during the consultation and you're uncomfortable in any way shape or form, let them know you don't think it's going to work, throw up the deuces and leave. After all it is your hair and your money you should leave happy and satisfied.

On Trend: Ankle Lace-Up Boots

Classic and au courant, lace up detailing is one of this season's most wanted trends. Here we see the trend on ankle booties. Pair these cuties with tights and skirts, skinny pants, tapered trousers, add an extra pair of socks over your tights, shorts a mini dress. With so many options for outfits, the lace up bootie trend is insanely stylish and practical. Click on photos for pricing and more details.

FAQ: Help My Hair is Falling Out

A reader asked...
I'm having issues! My hair is breaking off terribly and I don't know why. I'm not stressed. I co-wash and follow my regimen. Silk scarf and pillow case and everything. It's not just breaking of small dry pieces, it's long pieces of hair and I feel like I'm losing all of my hair down the drain. What to do?
First, you need to assess whether it's shedding or breakage. To do that, read this article first. In general if the hair you see falling is long that usually indicates shedding, small pieces are breakage. Look for white root bulbs at the top of the hair strands. If you see a white root that means the hair has shed naturally. If you don't see it, that means it is a broken hair.

Next, take a look at all of the products you are using. Do they contain any of the ingredients listed here? If so, you might want to get rid of it. Next, book an appointment with a doctor. Hair loss can sometimes be a signal to underlying health issues. You say you aren't stressed, but for others that are stressed, relax, get a massage and don't sweat the small stuff. You'd be surprised how much stress and depression could wreak havoc on your hair (and health in general). Hopefully for you it's just a matter of using the wrong products (or not having the proper moisture/protein balance) and a quick switch can correct the issue.

You should also pay attention to your diet when it comes to hair loss. Deficiencies of some minerals like iron, zinc, biotin, copper, essential fatty acids, B vitamins and Vitamin A can cause hair loss. See this chart. If you are experiencing any of the other associated symptoms listed on that chart, you could be deficient.


Lezlie Williams


Lezlie on her hair regimen...
On average I wash my hair 3 times a week. If I wear it out I will wash it every other day. If I don't feel like wearing it out a third day, I will pull it back into a crown ponytail. I deep condition once a week. Sometimes I am bad and only deep condition every other week. I trim my own hair at the moment. I try to trim it once a month, especially when I find a knot. I haven't used a flat iron on my hair since I went natural two years ago. I have had stylists use blow dryers on my hair a few times on set, but I never do at home. I do not highlight or color my hair. Sometimes I use coconut oil for moisture.

Lezlie's favorite hair products...
At this stage in my growth I only use Kinky-Curly products on my hair. I love that the line is organic and natural. I start with the "Come Clean" shampoo, then I apply the "Knot-Today" leave in conditioner and comb through my curls with a wide tooth comb or my finger. If I want perfect spirals with no frizz I will also use the "Curling Custard" once I am out the shower.

Favorite place to buy hair products...
I shop at Wilshire Beauty in Los Angeles, CA. They carry several lines for natural hair.

Favorite hair style...
I wore my hair long and relaxed most of my life, and always wondered what my natural hair looked like. So I stopped relaxing it for 3 months, went to the salon, and had him buzz ALL of my hair off. Since that day, I have worn it out and free for the most part. The curl pattern is pretty intense and most people assume I have a straw set or a curly perm. So I love to wear it naturally curly.

A couple of months ago, I filmed a movie (The Pretty Boys) that was set in 1973 and my character (Monica) rocked a fro everyday. I never imagined wearing a fro would feel so empowering, I loved it, and still wear it occasionally. Other than that, I will pull it up in a crown ponytail when I want a more polished look.


Lezlie's links...
I am currently entered in a contest for E.L.F. makeup! If you have a second you can click here to vote for me. I'm on facebook, add me @ http://www.facebook.com/lezliewilliams. Also, you can check out my website at www.lezliewilliams.com for current news.


Photos by Joe Goger

Curls You Need to Know: Shingai Shoniwa

Shingai Shoniwa is the lead singer and bassist of the UK group the Noisettes. Just watch the video below on YouTube. Her natural hairstyles and style in general are insanely innovative. Check her out.

Shut it Down Sunday: Ty States

Mane & Chic is always looking for fresh faces. Women with highly textured hair that may not get as much play as their straight-haired counterparts in the media. Mane & Chic should be a place where women can become famous and celebrated for their hair and style. That said, allow me to introduce you to curls you should know — Ty States of Supreme Model Management, suprememanagement.com. How haute is she with her fierce type 4 hair! Shut it down Ty!

FAQ: Shingling

A reader asked:
I'm newly natural (did the BC almost a month ago) and I really want to start trying more styles. I've tried twist outs, braid outs and even puffs, but I'd really like to try shingling for a different look.

I did watch the tutorial video that you linked, but what do you do at night time if you don't want to use direct heat? The video suggests that you use a blow dryer to re-fluff and stretch the next day, and even as the final step to give volume after the hooded dryer.

My question for you is - Will just finger fluffing mess up the curl or create frizz? Are you shingling minus the hair dyer?

I'd like the versatility of the stretched shingled look every now and then - but I'm just not sure if it's for me if I'm trying to limit direct heat.
You do not have to use a blow dryer the next day. The video by Miss Jessie's suggests you use a blow dryer to stretch after the initial set, but you can just finger fluff. You have to be super careful because you can cause frizz and loose curl definition if you overdo it. Fluffing takes practice. You also want to go easy on the products you're using. A little goes a long way. I just use a pea size amount of whatever products I'm using to re-style in the morning. Lately it's been Adara oil or Hair Milk, but I switch up a lot.

I rarely ever shingle my hair. Because I have 2 or 3 different textures on my head, braids outs, banding and roller sets give my hair a more uniform look. So, I usually just play around with the size of braids and rollers I use to get the same effects of shingling. I smooth my hair like I am shingling before I braid anyway, I think that is the secret to the perfect braid out. I also get the same effects of shingling by using the Banding method. At night I just lightly moisturize, seal with an oil, re-braid my hair, roll the ends, sleep on satin and finger fluff in style in the morning.

Second day hair is really going to depend on your hair type, how you well you sleep on your hair and your skill level of tying down your hair and finger fluffing. If you decide to shingle and want second, third, or even fourth day hair, just tie down your hair with satin scarf nice and snug. Make sure your hair is in a downward direction by using a little tension. You might just put it in a a bun or a few braids to lessen shrinkage. In the morning you should be able to just add a little bit of leave in conditioner, or spritz with a little bit of water, fluff and go. That doesn't work for me because I have little definition in the crown area of my head, so it's best if I just re-braid (or re-band) and set my hair every night. It only takes 5- 10 minutes tops depending on the size of braids I want.

On Trend: Engineer Boots

Engineer boots also known as motorcycle boots are huge this season. They are at their best when paired with skinny jeans, tights alone or tights with dresses of any length. Here are Mane & Chic's top picks for engineer boots. Prices range from $39.50 to $535. Can you guess the price point? Click on boots for pricing and details.



Transitioner Thursday

As you may are may not know, I transitioned from 13 years of relaxed hair to natural from February 2007 up until my big chop in July 2008. There are a bunch of things that I know now that I wish I would have known then. So for people that have already successfully transitioned, what are the things you wish you would have known while transitioning? Transitioners, what are some things you have questions about? Let's start a dialogue in the comments. You can also ask questions via FACEBOOK by clicking here.

I'll start.
I knew that...
  • I could never had done it without daily co-washing — rotating between moisturizing conditioners and protein conditioners.
  • Curl Formers meant I had to use little to no heat to get the sleek polished look.
  • The "SouthernTease Bun" was a low tension protective style that saved my ends.
  • Deep conditioning in sections for 45 minutes in fifteen minute intervals was a must!
I wish I would have...
  • I wish I had a Pibbs when I was transitioning. I probably could have gone longer.
  • Known the magic of Nexxus Emergencee and Aphogee. It would have made my new growth more manageable.
  • Discovered Curl Formers earlier in my transition.
  • Known that my hair in the front had a different/looser curl pattern. I wouldn't have cut off so much when I did my big chop.
  • Known what I know now about how to control frizz and reversion.
  • I wish I would have perfected my braid-out with flexi rods.

Happy Birthday Ms. Ross


Mane & Chic is a huge fan of Tracee Ellis Ross and her hair. Today is her birthday! She is 37. Happy Birthday Tracee!

Here she is at The Fourth Annual Black Girls Rock! event in New York on October 17, 2009.